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Goss Design Studio Jewelrybooks

Metal and Jewellery Books

We often get asked for recommendations for books on jewelry, metalworking, materials, techniques and design. We have compiled a short list of what we consider the most valuable of these resources.

Andrew Goss' book Concrete Handbook for Artists: Technical Notes for Small-scale Objects, is available on another site. It discusses the techniques and mixes for small-scale work such as jewellery and sculpture using this contemporary material.

Most titles below are linked to separate pages at Amazon.com, where you can read more details, order the books (prices are in US$) and have them shipped to you.

amazon
  • The Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing, Erhard Brepohl, published by Brynmorgen Press, 2001.
    At last! This is the book used by German goldsmiths since it was first published in 1961. Now translated into English by Charles Lewton-Brain and edited by Tim McCreight, the book is crammed (536 pages) with updated information, drawings, black and white illustrations, charts, the chemistry and physics behind why things happen the way they do. If you are an experienced jewellery-maker, you will be overwhelmed by what you didn't know. It's a great reference for troubleshooting problems. Among the topics covered: alloys, chemistry, physics, soldering, findings, stonesetting, repairs, silversmithing, electroplating...Strongly recommended. If you were to have two books in your jewelry reference library this should be one.

  • Jewelry Concepts and Technology, Oppi Untracht, published by Doubleday, Garden City, NY, 1985.
    This is the other one, one of the most comprehensive books on jewellery techniques, materials, and tools that we have seen in 24 years. Excellent on traditional hand techniques: engraving, casting, etching, metal lamination, soldering, plastics, stone setting, polishing, forging, wire work, great reference tables at the back, good index. Not cheap, but it's 840 pages long with lots of illustrations.

  • Metal Techniques for Craftsmen, Oppi Untracht's earlier book, was published in 1968 by Doubleday. It subtitle is: A Basic Manual for Craftsmen on the Methods of Forming and Decorating Metals, and we highly recommend it. 509 pages.

  • Traditional Jewelry of India, is Oppi Untracht's latest book published in 1997 by Harry N Abrams, 432 pages. Drawing on 35 years of research into Indian jewellery it includes 870 illustrations and photographs, colour and black and white. It's expensive, but worth it as a reference book and inspiration if you are a serious jewellery maker.

  • The Complete Metalsmith, by Tim McCreight is a spiral bound handbook for the studio/workshop, published in 1991 by Davis Publications. Well illustrated with line drawings, it describes in concise and easy to understand language the basics of jewellery-making and metalwork, along with more advanced and interesting techniques such as anticlastic raising, chain making or stone setting tips. Some topics are completely covered, while others whet the appetite. 189 pages.

  • Other recommended books by Tim McCreight include Practical Casting (1994), Working with Precious Metal Clay (2000), Metalsmith's Book of Boxes and Lockets (1999) and Jewelry: Fundamentals of Metalsmithing (1997).

  • Hydraulic Die Forming for Jewelers and Metalsmiths is Susan Kingsley's 1993 text for using a small hydraulic press for forming metal.

  • The Colouring, Bronzing, and Patination of Metals: A Manual for the Fine Metalworker and Sculptor : Cast Bronze, Cast Brass, Copper, and Copper-Plate by Richard Hughes, 372 pages, Whitney Library of Design, 1991.
    Originally published in England, and researched by Hughes and Michael Rowe, this large format book has excellent colour photographs of samples of every conceivable colour and chemical patina on non-ferrous metal. An invaluable reference for those seriously interested in patinas.

  • Textile Techniques in Metal: For Jewelers, Sculptors and Textile Artists, Arline M. Fisch, published by Lark Books, 1996.
    Originally published in 1975, this book clearly explains traditional textile techniques, making the transition to using metal wire. It covers weaving, knitting, crochet, braiding and basketry.

  • The New Jewelry: Trends + Traditions by Peter Dormer and Ralph Turner, published by Thames and Hudson, 1994. 216 pages.
    Revised from the original 1985 edition, this book captures the movements of contemporary art jewellery around the world. Clear photographs.

  • Africa Adorned by Angela Fisher, published by Harry N. Abrams, 1984.
    A beautiful large format book full of colour photographs that celebrate jewellery from across Africa. This is not archeology, this is living culture, explained in very clear text. For jewellery designers, this book is truly inspirational.

  • The New Beadwork by Alice Scherer, Tommy Olof Elder (photographer), Kathlyn Moss, 112 pages, published by Harry N Abrams, 1992.
    This book is full of colour photographs of contemporary beadwork, mostly from the United States, a few from Europe. As the book says, there's been a revolution in the last 20 years in this medium.

  • Ethnic Jewelry : Africa, Asia, and the Pacific by Michel Butor, Pierre-Alain Ferrazzini, 245 pages, published by Vendome Press, NY, 1994.
    Like Africa Adorned, this huge coffee-table book is inspirational for jewellery design, showing part of the collection of the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva. Minimal text.

  • Charles Lewton-Brain, a jeweller from Calgary, Alberta, has written a variety of technical papers (Brain Press). The papers are described and can be ordered directly from the author.

  • Ornament & Object: Canadian Jewelry & Metal Art 1946-1996, by Anne Barros, 176 pages, published by Boston Mills Press, 1997. A comprehensive history of metal and jewellery in the Canadian craft scene over 50 years, with many photographs.

  • If you want to do a search for a particular author, title, or keyword you can use the Amazon.com search engine right here:



If you are a metalworker or jeweller, we would like to hear of any books you would like to see added to this list. Go to the contact page.
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2003.10.18